the
Sixth
Varadero International
Meeting
held 28th to 30th May 2004
at
Campo de Geres, Northern
Portugal
Jess and Theresa's
Pictures and Comment
Sadly, the tragic death of Rob
Densum
'One of us'
overshadowed the events of this
VIM.
We share our experiences with
you.
RIP
Rob Densum
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+
Killed in Spain on his way home from
VIM
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On the Plymouth to
Santander
ferry with (from left to
right),
Rob Densum, Mickey,
Paul (BMW),
hree ladies from Plymouth,
Dessie (Gingerchin),
Theresa.
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We met up near Chaves having
travelled separately most of the way,
with John and Judy Price,
Rob Densum, John, Paul, Dessie,
Theresa, Mickey.
The NI on the back of the Beemer
we learned meant
'Not Interested'.
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Arrival at Campo de Geres,
greeted by John in
yellow.
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A sidecar outfit with a
difference,
fitted to a Varadero.
The sidecar is hinged,
leaving the bike free to
lean.
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Time for a chin wag
at base camp.
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....although a bit warmer inside
with Theresa, Merlin, Nugget,
Mr Hinged Sidecar Man, Barry
T.
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The bikes lining up in
readiness
for the Saturday morning run out,
starting with a Guinness
world record attempt.
http://www.guinnessworldrecords
.com/index.asp?id=54588
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....and the dawg travels
too!
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Martin du Toit, having the time
of his life.
Like a dog with two willies he was!
Like he always is - at a
VIM.
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Centre three, Luca Granata from
Italy,
Bernard Two Plugs and Sandro from
Italy.
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Like driving a
brick?
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Over 100 Varadero's
filling up with
petrol!
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Our Greek friends enjoying
a bit of dancing after our
meal.
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On the road between our hotel
and the camp. We met up with
the Ulstermen on their way home
and got this
picture.
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Theresa with her bunny
ears!
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A baby Varadero turned up
in Porto, the only one we saw.
Where are you now
Diarmid?
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We had a drink to absent friends.
Only one drink, as we had to
ride back down the
mountain
afterwards.
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It beats camping, any day.
This was our hotel lobby,
a superb place to stay.
The Hotel
Universal.
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260504 Wednesday - We got up early,
loaded the bike and set off at 7.05am. With appalling traffic on
the M25 as per usual, we arrived in Exeter at 12.05pm and cruised
into Plymouth at 12.50pm, 280 miles on the clock, 451km. Didn't
see any other Varadero's on the quay and were soon boarded and
installed in our tiny cabin. The boat sailed at 2.00pm, a nice day
and calm water. A venture to the bar and we were soon spotted by
Rob Densum, an old mate from previous Varadero events. We later
met up with the Northern Ireland contingent, Ulstermen Dessie,
John, Mickey and Paul, all well into a few bottles of red wine.
These guys are party animals! We also met up with John and Judy
Price from Cornwall. A smooth crossing to Santander ensued.
270504 Thursday - We were called at 6.30am
and up and packed and to breakfast. The ship must have been quite
new as it was very clean and tidy. The crew was excellent, as were
the catering facilities. We were held up for a long time and when
we eventually got off, all the others had gone. We settled for the
trip to Portugal on our own, quite pleased about that really as we
could set our own pace. Sun shining, warm, slight breeze, we took
the coast road to Oviedo, then south to Leon, through a
spectacular mountain region with several impressive tunnels. 3.90
and 5.90 Euro tolls on this section of the A66. Surprised not see
any sheep. We stopped at a café at 1189 metres altitude and
had a chat with some old buffers riding Harley Davidsons. We had
seen many Harleys and learned that they were having a big get
together in Spain somewhere. South to Benavente and west to Pueblo
de Sanabria on the impressive N52. Very little traffic and we
travelling at 140-150kph on motorways. Took C622 south across the
border into Portugal, being stopped by the police and our
documents checked. Possibly looking for football hooligans as a
big event is coming up soon. Very twisty road but little traffic.
Drove to Braganca, called at the tourist office and went and found
a hotel. The Hotel Tulipa was our choice, although no English was
spoken, only French or German. So that was fun, using our French
to the young girl there and German to the lady of the place.
Parked the 'Bel Moto' in the back yard, a nice room, a shower.
882km cumulative on GPS, although we probably missed 100km as the
batteries were out for a while. Max speed 174kph. 603m altitude.
Arrived at 6.00pm so approx 9 hours on the road. Enjoyed a nice
meal in the restaurant. Ham and olives and bread for appetisers.
Two beers and a meal called Lombo something which was a large
sirloin steak on a sizzling skillet.. Salad and potatoes. More
French and German chat. Welcome to Portugal! We went for a wander
around this old city and were surprised when we spied John and
Judy in a restaurant. We invited ourselves to join them for a
drink and to share our experiences of the trip down. John is a
meticulous man, a great thinker, someone who likes to plan. He had
got the trip all figured out. We agreed to travel together the
next day for the last leg of our journey, some 150kms (or are they
clicks John?)? Very warm evening, the streets busy with mainly
men. Nothing rowdy, just pleasant atmosphere.
280504 Friday - A good night's sleep and a
bill of 84.50 Euros. All loaded up and we said our
obrigado's to our hosts, meeting J and J outside their
hotel above the cinema. A good run to Mirandela, then on to Chaves
and then along the N105 to Geres. We stopped for petrol somewhere
and were joined by the Ulstermen and Rob Densum, who had all
travelled together. Now we were seven bikes, 6 Vara's and one BMW
GS1150 (Paul). Great laughs about them getting Rob to lean over
more on bends and scratch his footpegs. So we were one again - but
only for a short while. Mickey in the lead, took a turn up a dirt
track, believing it to be the right way and we held back knowing
it to be so obviously wrong. As they didn't come back again, we, J
and J and Rob set off without the other four. A very twisty road,
something that we would come to expect in Portugal before too
long. Took the 308 and a long descent to the lake and then across
the bridge and up the other side ascending to Campo de Geres via
Terra de Bouros. It was great to get there at last. A nice welcome
and friendly signing in. Met up with Bernard the Big Man, Jan
Willem, Uwe, Mike the Mad Swede, Martin du Toit, Barbara Timmerman
and Wolfgang; and many other old 'friends'. We were keen to find
our hotel so we set off across a narrow mountain road, absolutely
bowled over by the beauty of the location. The rock formations
quite amazing, just as if they had been built up on each other
using a crane, rather than the obvious formation of millions of
years. Approx 14km to the Hotel Universal in Vila de Geres which
turned out to be superb. We even had a BBC channel! Unpacked and a
shower and then back to the campsite for our meal which turned out
to be roast pig in a roll with some salad. T a beer, J and coke.
Everybody getting to know each other it true VIM tradition!
Back to the hotel in the dark with T quite nervous due to the road
type, sheer drops, etc. We had a couple of beers in the bar and a
long chat with a Portuguese couple and the barman who once worked
in England.
290504 Saturday - Breakfast at 7.30am,
overcast and misty, although probably only low cloud. Down the
valley to fill up with fuel and then back again and across the
mountain road to Campo de Geres. We found everybody massing to set
off, an attempt for a Guinness World Record being made if we could
get enough bikes together of the same make and model. The string
of bikes stretched a long way and J counted 124. We ended up with
136 Varadero's in total, with us at 76 and a few extra
non-Varadero's sent to the back. We eventually (things don't seem
to happen on time in Portugal) set off up the mountain roads,
passing through some beautiful valleys and through small
communities of peasant folk. We headed off to the NW corner of
Portugal, stopping briefly at Melgaco for a wine tasting and then
on to Moncao for a late lunch. An amazing 5 course meal was
enjoyed by us and the Greeks did a bit of dancing. Very
entertaining! It would never happen in England. We were impressed
and amazed by the way the organisers blocked the roads to enable
the 150 odd bikes to travel in convoy. An amazing sight, watching
as we could the head of the convoy far off on a mountain road and
distantly on main roads. No car driver seemed to be upset by the
delay and all seemed content to watch the amazing sight. We ended
up in Terras de Boura where a further meal and entertainment was
being prepared. We were tired and headed back to the hotel,
leaving the others to enjoy the evening's fun.
300504 Sunday - Up at our leisure and down
to breakfast. When we eventually got to Campo, expecting everybody
to have left at 8.30am as the programme (joke!), most were still
there and getting ready to leave at 10.00am. We joined a small
group of around 12 bikes, for a trip to the city of Porto. A nice
sunny day. 18490 odo when we left Campo. We met up en masse with
all the others in Porto, a car park pre arranged for our use. This
was by the river and we could see all the advertising signs across
the river for the various brands of Port wine that Porto is famous
for. We walked to a nearby museum and tasted some port wine. It
was very warm in our leathers. The people of Porto were obviously
anticipating the forthcoming football event with FC Porto banners
all over the place. We were less bikes today than yesterday, with
many preferring to do their own thing rather than follow in convoy
at what they compalined was at 'slow speed'. We thought they had
missed the point. Our view was that we were here to be a part of
VIM and that we would have plenty of time to do our own thing on
the way home. Next we were taken to a restaurant were we enjoyed a
nice meal with water and wine. Amazed that they could serve so
much wine and later, whisky and liquers, when we were all driving.
The Greeks did some more dancing and then we had the presentations
for all sorts of categories. Our table was the English speaking
table with John and Judy and a lad Diarmid? who had arrived late
on his 125cc Varadero. There must have been 100 people dining. The
Portuguese certainly know how to wine and dine! The meals have
been fantastic. Missing from our table were the Ulstermen who had
to set off for home. Earlier in the morning we had encountered
them on the Geres road when we stopped to take some photographs
(see above). Martin du Toit had set off for home with Italians
Luca and Sandro. Rob had headed off alone for Marseilles to meet a
lady. Then on to a large square (with a monument to somebody
called Garrett outside), for a mass photo shoot. Then back in
convoy through Porto, Barga, Terras de Bouro and to the camp. Had
a chat with those remaining and then said our goodbyes before
heading off for the last time across our beautiful mountain road
to our hotel in Vila de Geres. It was 9.00pm by then. A shower and
a snack and a beer at the bar. A brilliant day!
310504 Monday - Breakfast, packed our
things, paid our bill and off. Perfect clear blue sky. It had been
a wonderful experience and we doubted whether we would ever return
here again. It is such a beautiful place and the Clube Varadero
Portugal people have been brilliant. In comparison to other VIMs
this one has in terms of riding, been the absolute best. We felt a
bit out of it not being on campus with them all, thus missing out
on the craic. We set off for Chaves, a slow twisty run as
expected. North to the Spanish border, picking up the superb N52
for a fast run east, hoping to make it as far as Pamplona. It was
a long hot run, and boring for T, as we crossed the country with
its wide flat landscape. We eventually arrived in Pamplona at
9.30pm and found a hotel, Hotel Husa, near the airport. Very nice
and comfortable, unlike the attached restaurant bar with its
frosty barstaff. We were late so it was not easy to get anything
to eat. We settled for beer and toasted sandwiches. We had left
Geres at 10.15am and had travelled 760km today.
010604 Tuesday - We were aware that we had
to get home for our children so we were limited in what
sightseeing we could do. It was a cloudy day and promised rain, so
we thought. We had breakfast, a meagre affair consisting of a
glass of orange a croissant and a cup of coffee. Noisy, smoky,
standard practice of throwing rubbish on floor - typically
Spanish? Not the best stopover experience we had had. Not
spectacular scenery but an enjoyable ride through the drizzle
across the border through the Pyrenees, N135 to border and D933
into France. Not wet enough for wet gear and we were bemused by
all the cyclists who were about with strained faces as they
ascended the hills. Why do they do it? Clearly not enjoyable! Once
into France we enjoyed a lovely ride through to Bergerac, stopping
briefly for a coffee and a sandwich in a town on the way. Overcast
and damp all the way. We turned east to follow the Dordogne and
ended up in Sarlat, finding a delightful little two star hotel
called Chez Marcel. The madame had no English but we had
enough French to get by. She had a petit chien (Yorkshire
Terrier) called Merlin who had seemingly missed out on lessons in
how to be friendly to the English. After a shower and change we
wandered into the old part of the town and found a nice restaurant
in a back street called the Auberge de Mirandole where we enjoyed
a nice meal with two bottles of Bergerac wine. Delightful! Back by
10.00pm, finding les deux madames et le chien mechant in
the foyer and eager for conversation. Merlin eager for an attack
on a leg or hand or something English. Bon nuit and to bed.
We watched the French version of 'Who Wants to be a Millionaire'.
453 km today, max speed 138kph, 2817 odo on GPS.
020604 Wednesday - Much snoring in the night
apparently! At breakfast, we had a picture of Constable's 'The
Haywain' on the wall, which seemed odd. We live only a few miles
from the location in the picture. Cloudy but dry, we bid our au
revoirs and set off. We headed for Limoges looking for
somewhere to get oil for the Scottoiler, which had run dry. Then
on to Oradour sur Glane where a Nazi war atrocity had been carried
out in 1944, meeting up with three East Anglian bikers, delighted
to be away from their wives, who let us have some of their oil.
The site was very sombreing, quite different to the memory that J
had of it when he had visited in 1988. Around 600 people, men,
women and children, wiped out in one day - and for what purpose?
Then on towards home, finding a nice hotel just short of Rouen,
the Comfort Inn at Val de Reuil. A nice meal and some wine. More
French speaking opportunities, T learning a few words and with
great fun with her pronunciation. Must remember to get her to say,
'Je ne comprend pas' in a few years time! We had done 681
km today, max speed 177.5kph, 3498km odo on GPS.
030604 Thursday - Breakfast and off, headed
for Calais. A good run and easy boarding on a ferry. Arrived home
to the children at around 5.00pm. All was well and everybody
happy. Pleased to be home after our epic week. 443km today (251km
to Calais with a spooky exact reading of 20,000 miles as we got on
the ferry), 3940km odo on GPS, 20114 miles odo on bike. We caught
up with all the news, only to be followed by tragedy. On checking
our email, discovered that Rob Densum had been killed in Bilbao on
his way home, travelling alone. The whole Varadero membership is
devastated by the news, rather than the exhilaration that we
should all be feeling following the success of the VIM. RIP Rob.
We will miss you.
On
26th June 2004, Theresa and I attended Rob's memorial in
Camden Town, London, organised by his partner Christine
Pennington.
We were joined by several other
Varadero friends, namely John and Virgil - all the way
from Portugal, Barry Tinson, Max, Phil (Arse) and
Catherine, Rob and Trish.
The end of a sad chapter in
VIM's history!